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  • Shaken/car inspection

    My car is due for it`s Shaken pretty soon, and just for the experience, and to try and save some cash, I`m going to do it myself, rather than take it to a garage and have them charge a huge amount of money for repairs that may not be needed.

    Anyway, has anybody here taken their car through the inspection station by themselves? I`ll have a friend with me to help with paperwork, but I`ll be in the car by myself when I take it through the long shed that (automatically?) does all the tests. Yesterday I went and watched some cars being inspected; I couldn't see into the inspection shed, but the long line of cars was moving very quickly. I guess most of the drivers were mechanics, taking their customer's car, and had done the inspection a million times before. But I DID see a couple of grannies... so some local people take their own car in.

    Anyway, if you have any experiences to share, please reply!

  • #2
    my wife and i did the paper work and crap and it was a piece of cake just takes an hour or two but saves u a bit i think?!

    good luck with it


    • #3

      I've done it a couple times, it's not that difficult, but the inspectors can be troublesome if you try to put through an older car. In my case I took an 8 year old truck that had plenty of kilometers on it. The inspectors didn't like the oil leaking and they wanted me to put new tires on it. They also didn't like the bent fender where my wife backed into a backhoe blade. I had to take the car to make the repairs and take it back again a couple hours later. That was all there was to it. Filling out the forms would be a pain if you can't write the lingo.

      Saved some money no doubt.
      Last edited by homesweethome; 2006-09-23, 08:28 AM.


      • #4
        I usually get a quote from about three places before I decide. It only takes about 30 minutes and they are pretty quick about it. In the end I usually always end up taking it to a gas station and have it done as they are not in the business of trying to sell me a new car if they find something wrong. The last time I took my car in the clock read about 91,000 kms, but all they replaced were the brake pads. Some places offer a 10,000 yen discount if you book with them really early was well.


        • #5
          User Shaken

          "User Shaken" ƒ†[ƒU[ŽÔŒŸ it's called - you check the car yourself, repair/replace anything necessary, organise the paperwork, then take your car through the inspection process at one of the MLIT inspection centres.

          Costs are transparent and can be kept to the absolute minimum - just the costs stipulated by law, and the cost of repairs required (as applicable).

          The process is not hard to understand, and there is plenty of information on the Internet, both official and unofficial, explaining it (in Japanese). You need to be reasonably fluent in Japanese to read the signs and directions going through the inspection line, and getting everything organised.

          Language aside, perhaps the most difficult part of "User Shaken" is the process of checking the car over yourself, so you can fill in the 24-monthly tenkenseibi kirokubo “_ŒŸ®”õ‹L˜^•ë - a checklist of the 60 points stipulated by law that are to be checked every 24 months. This involves getting your hands dirty checking brake linings, hoses, pipes, spark plugs, belts, tyres, wheels, and checking under the car (safely!) for anything loose/rusty/damaged, oil leaks, broken rubber seals, muffler/exhaust pipe holes, etc. You'd also want to make sure the underneath of the car is reasonably clean. When you've checked everything's ok, and anything necessary has been fixed, you check off the items in the tenkenseibi kirokubo. The tenkenseibi kirokubo is one of the eight documents you present to the inspection office when you take your car in for inspection.

          This 60-point check is checking for different (safety-related) things than the inspection process at the inspection center. For example, one of the 60 points is the remaining thickness of the brake linings (take the wheel off, and check if the brake pads have enough friction material left on them). However, at the inspection center, the brake linings are not checked. What is checked at the inspection centre is whether or not the brakes work. So, if you've got hardly any brake lining left, your car could pass the inspection at the inspection centre, although the car would not really be safe.

          There are probably some people, perhaps with a newer car, with low kilometres, who would check off the items, but not really check the car over properly, and then pass through the inspection centre test ok, however it would be foolhardy to completely skip over this check. For your own safety, as well as to prevent damage, you'd want to check things properly. Also, if something needs to be repaired (perhaps something obvious, such as a broken CV joint cover, or exhaust pipe leak) you'll be better off finding that out in advance, and fixing it (or getting it fixed), rather than being told when going through the inspection line, which would probably result in you needing to come back another day after it's fixed.

          Not all of the 60 points are applicable to all vehicles (eg, for automatics, the clutch check is not applicable), and some of the items can be skipped if that car has travelled less than a certain number of kms since the previous check.

          Perhaps the most useful website explaining all this, with photographs showing how to check your car, etc, is "User Shaken Club"

          The eight documents you'll need are:
          (adapted from

          1. Ž©“®ŽÔŒŸ¸Ø–¾‘jidousha kensa shoumeisho (commonly called "shaken shou" ŽÔŒŸØ). This should be in your glove box. It has details of your vehicle, registered owner, registered user, and the date on which your shaken expires (this date is also written on the back of the shaken sticker (the square sticker attached to your windscreen, normally in the middle, behind the rear vision mirror)). You can renew your shaken from one month before it expires.

          2. Ž©“®ŽÔÅ”[ÅØ–¾‘Jidoushazei nouzei shoumeisho. Receipt for the payment of Automobile Tax (which is due at the end of May each year).

          3. “_ŒŸ®”õ‹L˜^•ëTenkenseibi kirokubo. As described above, this is the check sheet for the 60-points. There is no prescribed form. The motor service industry association has their own carbon-copy style form, which they use. There may be a form you can use in the back of the owners' handbook that came with your car, in which case it might also list manufactuer-recommended checkpoints, in addition to those required by law. The number of checkpoints was reduced to 60 in 1995 (I think), so if your car is older than 1995, it may list more items than are currently required. Perhaps the easiest way is to print the PDF form on the NAVI website:

          4. Ž©”…Ó•ÛŒ¯Ø–¾‘jibaiseki hoken shoumeisho. Certificate of compulsory insurance (current certificate + new certificate). The new certificate, for the next two years, you can purchase at an office at the inspection centre, or you can purchase it in advance through an insurance agent. The insurance is sold by several companies, and the premium is the same.

          5. Ž©“®ŽÔd—ʐŔ[•t‘jidousha juuryouzei noufusho. Form for payment of weight tax, to which you attach the stamp for payment.

          6. Œp‘±ŒŸ¸\¿‘keizoku kensa shinseisho. Application form for test. An OCR-style sheet that you fill in your number plate details in pencil, then fill in the registered user's name and address, and stamp the registered user's inkan. This form costs circa 35yen

          7. Ž©“®ŽÔŒŸ¸•[jidousha kensahyou. Test sheet. A purple, slightly stiff sheet, where your test results are recorded. The 1300yen + 400yen = 1700yen (or 1400yen + 400yen = 1800yen) stamps for the test fee is attached to this sheet (1400yen for kei cars).

          8. ƒŠƒTƒCƒNƒ‹Œ”risaikuru ken. Recycling certificate. An additional check at shaken time, from 2005-02-01 until 2008-01-31, is checking that the recycling fee for your car has been paid. This is a scheme introduced in 2005 whereby you pre-pay the estimated cost (as determined by your vehicle's manufacturer) of recycling your car at the end of it's useful life. If you don't have this certificate for your car, you can print out your certificate at the touch-screen kiosk machines at the inspection centre, and pay at the designated desk.

          The costs:

          1.Ž©”…Ó•ÛŒ¯ jibaiseki hoken. Compulsory insurance for the next two years. For a private passenger car, the amount is currently (from April 2011) is 24950 yen (yellow plate kei-car: 21970 yen) (lower amounts for Okinawa and/or island locations). Complete details here:

          2. d—ʐÅjuuryouzei. Weight tax. 25200 yen for 0.5t - 1.0t (reduced to 20000 yen from 2010-04-01 if less than 18 years from date of first registration, reduced further for "eco car genzei" vehicles), more for heavier vehicles. Kei cars are 7600 yen (less for "eco car genzei" vehicles). Complete list:

          3. ŒŸ¸Žè”—¿test fee: 1700yen (1300yen + 400yen) (1800yen (1400yen + 400yen) for larger vehicles). Yellow plate kei-cars are 1400yen.

          4. —pŽ†‘ãtest application form: circa 35 yen

          5. ƒŠƒTƒCƒNƒ‹—¿‹àRecycling fee (if not already paid).

          (Not applicable from 2008-02-01 - see )

          Add in the cost of driving to the test centre, and any necessary repairs.

          Besides Shaken every two years, the other ongoing costs of car ownership in Japan are:

          - "Automobile Tax" Ž©“®ŽÔÅ based on engine displacement, payable at the end of May each year. 34500 yen for a 1.0 - 1.5 litre engine, 7200 yen for a kei-car. Complete details at:

          (This page doesn't include the 10% surcharge for old cars (13 years+, I think), or discounts available for environmentally-friendly vehicles).

          - nin'i hoken ”CˆÓ•ÛŒ¯(optional insurance)
          The way I understand things, the compulsory insurance is insufficient to cover your potential liability for injury/death to other people, which is why optional insurance is considered very important.
          - - - - -

          After you've checked over your car, arranging the paperwork and passing through the inspection line is the fun bit. You need to book for the inspection. You can book online, up to 10 (white-plate) or 14 (yellow-plate) business days in advance:

          (white-plate cars)

          (yellow-plate kei-cars)

          (both of these are in Japanese).

          You can take the test at any inspection centre, by the way, regardless of where you live or where your car is registered.

          "My Shaken Story" - perhaps the most detailed account of a "User Shaken" experience in English on the Internet. The info is from Oita-ken in March 2003. The author appears to mistake the compulsory insurance premium (which was 27600 yen at the time) with "automobile tax", and there is no mention of the tenkenseibi kirokubo, or the need to book for the test, however other than that it is a very useful and informative account:

          Procedure for yellow-plate kei-cars is almost identical, except that the inspection is done at the "Light Motor Vehicle Inspection Organization" inspection centre, which I think is normally if not always co-located with the MLIT's inspection centre.

          Ifll write about how to pass through the (largely automated) inspection line a bit later.
          Last edited by bland; 2011-08-29, 09:29 PM. Reason: URL update


          • #6
            Thanks for ALL the replies. And "bland"... I now consider you to be my God; that is the second time you have replied to me with a very detailed answer, thank you! If you have time later, please tell us about the automated inspection line, cheers!


            • #7
              User Shaken - booking

              When you book online or by phone, you're given a five-digit yoyaku bangou —\–ñ”ԍ†(reservation number). Make a note of it. You'll need to write this on your purple inspection sheet (white plate), or show it when you check in for the inspection (yellow plate).

              There are four rounds each day, rounds 1 and 2 in the morning, and rounds 3 and 4 in the afternoon. The check-in and inspection times are shown on the website. It's probably best to go with round 1 or 2, so that if your car fails on some point, you've got more time to get it fixed on the same day, in which case you can pass straight through the inspection line again, checking just the failed points, and pass, with no additional fees or paperwork.

              If you've checked the car properly, perhaps the most common point your car might fail at the inspection is the headlight alignment, and the emissons test, as these are difficult / impossible to check without special equipment. Located very close to the inspection centre should be one or more (entrepreneurial) motor service businesses that are set up to quickly adjust / fix minor points you've failed. For example, if you've failed the headlight alignment test, just drive across the road, next door, or wherever to the mechanic (who has the same / similar test equipment that is used at the inspection centre), and you can get that fixed on the spot for around 2000 - 3000 yen. Similarly, if you've failed the exhaust emissions test on CO (too much carbon monoxide), and your car has a carburettor, that probably means the mixture is too rich, and the mechanic can adjust that for you on the spot (which would probably improve your fuel economy as a bonus!).

              On the day for your shaken, the procedure is basically,

              1. Organise the paperwork and check in.
              Purchase the inspection application form (40yen), get the inspection record sheet, purchase jibaiseki (if you haven't arranged it beforehand), get the recycle certificate printed from one of the touch-screen terminals, and pay that (if it hasn't already been paid for your vehicle), get the weight tax form, pay the weight tax (for white plate cars, at least, it is possible to defer payment of the weight tax until AFTER you have successfully passed through the inspection, although I'm not sure if there is any real benefit in deferring it), and pay the 1700 yen (or 1800 yen) inspection fee.

              (edit: The advantage in not paying the weight tax until you've passed is a small amount of risk mitigation, in case you find out that your car can't pass without repairs that would be economically unviable and you're forced to dispose of your car. The financial risk is less since 2005, because it's now possible to get a refund of the unused portion of the weight tax, although it's an extra procedure to take care of.)

              You then fill in the forms, which is mainly just writing the registered user's name and address (and inkan), and copying information from your shaken certificate. When you've got all eight documents ready, collate all eight documents into an A4-size clipboard (not compulsory, but it makes things easier), and submit it at the desk with the large "ƒ†[ƒU[ŽÔŒŸŽó•t" (User Shaken reception) sign.

              The clerk will check your yoyaku bango against their list, and then check over the documents, stamp your inspection sheet, and then hand everything back to you.

              2. Take car through shaken line.

              (I'll post about this a bit later)

              3. Receive new shaken certificate and sticker
              When you've received the final OK stamp on your inspection sheet, submit the documents again to the user shaken desk, then wait a few minutes for your new shaken certificate and shaken sticker.
              Last edited by bland; 2008-09-06, 10:47 AM. Reason: weight tax deferment reason


              • #8
                The shaken line

                The shaken line ŽÔŒŸƒ‰ƒCƒ“

                So you've checked in, and you've got the documents clipped neatly to an A4-sized clipboard, with the purple inspection sheet on top.

                Remove any wheel covers, open your windows (so you can clearly hear the instructions), and line your car up in the appropriate lane.

                Which lane? Check this by reading the signs and observing other cars. Things to watch out for are lanes reserved for particular vehicles, or for re-tests ÄŒŸ¸ (ie, vehicles that are going through a second time, to check parts that failed the first time 'round - a particular lane may be reserved for this), and any particular lane your car might need to use if it's extra large or if it has full-time 4WD, 4WS, etc.

                As you near the entrance to the inspection shed, an inspector will approach you for the initial check. Hand the clipboard to the inspector, and follow the instructions for left/right indicator, side lights (parking lights), low beam, high beam, hazard lights, wipers/washers, reversing lights, horn. The inspector will also check under the hood to verify the car body number (and possibly check for oil leaks, etc). Also checked at this stage is the wheel nuts, steering wheel, and window winders. External defects, non-standard modifications, etc, would probably also be picked up at this stage.

                With the procedure going through the inspection "shed", there may be some variation in the exact procedures between inspection centres (or even different lanes at the same inspection centre), but there are basically two arrangements - the newer type, where detailed instructions appear on LED dot-matrix electronic displays, and the older type, where you follow the instruction (eg release/apply brakes) that is illuminated on the board.

                In the newer-style, the order is

                1. Exhaust gas emissions test

                2. Multi-tester
                - wheel alignment ("side slip") test on slow approach
                - brakes
                - speedometer test
                - headlight test

                3. Pit test

                In an older-style lane, the order is

                1. Multi-tester
                - wheel alignment ("side slip") test on slow approach
                - brakes
                - speedometer test

                2. Headlight test and Exhaust emissions test (possibly simultaneously)

                3. Pit test

                There are lines that you should line your tyres up with, and clear marks for where you should stop. You may need to move slowly while leaning out the drivers window to check where the tyres are. Except for the pit test at the end, the tests are automatic and/or "self-service". After each set of tests, you insert your inspection sheet into an automatic stamping machine.

                Exhaust gas emissions test -

                You leave the engine idling (handbrake on, tranmission in neutral/park, air conditioning etc off), then get out of the car, push the button for which exhaust gas restrictions your car is subject to (if necessary), then insert the probe into your exhaust pipe. The test unit indicates testing in progress ŒŸ¸’†, then displays the results. You then insert your test sheet into the automatic stamping machine to record the results.

                There appear to be two exhaust gas restrictions. Your car would be subject to the Showa 53 (1978) restrictions º˜a‚T‚R”N‹K§, or the tougher Heisei 12 (2000) restrictions •½¬‚P‚Q”N‹K§ (or maybe no restrictions if your car is more than 28 years old). The restriction your car meets is noted in the remarks section of your Shaken certificate. If your Shaken certificate shows Showa 53 in the remarks section, you may need to push the ‹Œ‹K§ button on the exhaust gas tester. Ask the inspector after the external inspection if you're unsure which button to push.

                Excess HC (hydrocarbons) would mean unburnt fuel (caused by misfiring, fowled spark plugs, other ignition problems). Excess CO (carbon monoxide) would mean the mixture is too rich. This can be adjusted with the mixture adjustment screw on a carburettor. On a car with fuel injection, you may well have to pay "a pretty penny to get that up to spec".

                The engine should be warmed up at this stage, so the catalytic converter has reached operating temperature, etc. Hopefully the drive to the inspection centre would be adequate for this.

                Multi-tester -

                You approach the multi-tester slowly, and a "side slip" (wheel alignment) test is somehow unobtrusively conducted (I don't really understand this bit). You drive your car forward, stopping your front tyres on the front set of rollers. The back rollers automatically slide into place.

                Brake test -

                With the handbrake off, and transmission in neutral, it's time for the brake test. Follow the instructions to apply/release the footbrake (front brakes wheels tested first, then rear wheels (all four wheels, just once, for full time 4WD), and then apply/release the handbrake. For each test, apply the brake firmly, and keep holding the brake until the green circle indicating OK appears.

                Speedometer test -

                The most fun part of the inspection. You accelerate to 40km/hr, then indicate by flashing your headlights (new style - the display shows: 40km/hrƒpƒbƒVƒ“ƒO) or pushing a button (old style). On a front-wheel drive car , you'd apply the handbrake to hold the back wheels (not that the car's going to go anywhere), however some of the testers have the front and back rollers linked, so you'd need to have the handbrake released - as with a full time 4WD, you sit there with all four wheels spinning. Alternative arrangements (I don't know what they are) are made for unusual cars where the speedometer measures from a non-driving wheel. If your speedometer is inaccurate, make sure you know what it actually reads for 40km/hr.

                Headlight test -

                This is done with your headlights on HIGH BEAM. If your car has a system of four headlights on the front (look closely, as it may not be obvious on some cars), you MAY need to cover the outside pair of headlights with your clipboard, or a piece of cardboard etc. There may be a sign indicating this.

                Pit inspection -

                The last step, at the end of the inspection "shed". You drive your car over the pit area, then stop your engine uŒŸ¸’† ƒGƒ“ƒWƒ“’âŽ~v. Listen for instructions from the inspector, such as rocking the steering wheel side to side, pressing the brake pedal, etc.

                For kei-cars, you instead drive onto a hoist, which lifts your car up.

                After passing through the tests, you need to get a final OK stamp on your inspection sheet, then you can submit your documents back at the office and get your new shaken certificate and sticker.

                If your car has failed any points, if you can get it fixed within the same day, you can go straight back through the inspection line with no additional costs or paperwork. If you come back on a subsequent day, you'll need to pay the 1400 yen (or 1500 yen) test fee again, or there is an option, I understand, where you can get a kind of "provisional" (ŒÀ’è) Shaken certificate for 1100 yen, which gives you one or two weeks to get it fixed.

                Most of the people taking cars through the inspection line are wearing mechanics overalls, and taking customers' cars through - they have been through the process many times, and are thoroughly familiar with it - however first timers are adequately accomodated. In some kei-car test lines, there is even a railed off observation walkway Œ©ŠwƒR[ƒX, running parallel to the inspection line. First timers are encouraged to watch (kengaku Œ©Šw) the procedures before their turn.
                Last edited by bland; 2008-09-23, 10:07 AM. Reason: spelling


                • #9
                  Well, that was an interesting experience!

                  I got a copy of the 60-point check from the net, and did just about everything I was supposed to. Obviously I couldn't do the big things like wheel alignment, but that gets checked at the inspection centre anyway.

                  I took a J friend with me to the inspection centre, to help with the paperwork. We had to trot back and forth a few times between buildings (all within the same complex), making different payments in different places. Then it was off to join the line of cars waiting to be inspected. Tell you what, I was nervous!

                  Anyway, before I actually entered the inspection shed, a guy came and checked my lights, windscreen washers, wheels, that sort of stuff. He was VERY kind, and said I could take as long as I wanted, no rush. He also got me to leave my hazard lights on as I went through the inspection shed... I was the only one to do so... not sure why, maybe because it was my first time?

                  Anyway, I had a friend on the catwalk beside my car, inside the shed. They watched the sign-boards and told me what I was supposed to do. The staff came out and helped also, chatted with me, joked around... it was actually a lot of fun!

                  The test itself took about 10 minutes all up, and I passed first go It was easy, and I only paid the minimum (taxes, etc).

                  Funny thing was... the 60-point check sheet that I carefully filled out... nobody even glanced at it. They actually took it out of my pile of paperwork and gave it back to me. Still a good idea to carry out the checks though.

                  Thanks for all the help, especially "bland". And I hope other people will find this thread useful. If your car is coming up for Shaken, and you have the time, then do it yourself! I've heard from too many people about paying up to \200,000 to put a newish car through Shaken. My car is about 10 years old!


                  • #10
                    One question: This is, obviously, for the big two-year shaken test; what about the off-year, lesser check that I was told I also had to do? Have ignored it in past years, but is this a violation of the law?


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hijinx
                      One question: This is, obviously, for the big two-year shaken test; what about the off-year, lesser check that I was told I also had to do? Have ignored it in past years, but is this a violation of the law?
                      yes and no... but mostly no.... kinda like NHK if that makes sense.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by eku
                        yes and no... but mostly no.... kinda like NHK if that makes sense.
                        Yea, I got stopped once by the cops and hadn't gotten the new sticker--they didn't say anything. It's just another scam to funnel money into car dealer or repair shop hands.


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hijinx
                          Yea, I got stopped once by the cops and hadn't gotten the new sticker--they didn't say anything. It's just another scam to funnel money into car dealer or repair shop hands.
                          Yup. Apparently it is recommended, but not mandated. Or simply not enforced.


                          Great to hear it went well. You are truly a credit to your race.


                          • #14
                            tenken seibi - the law

                            Originally posted by Hijinx
                            This is, obviously, for the big two-year shaken test; what about the off-year, lesser check that I was told I also had to do? Have ignored it in past years, but is this a violation of the law?
                            To understand this, you need to note the difference between "Shaken" (ŽÔŒŸ) and "tenken seibi" i“_ŒŸ®”õj.

                            Shaken(ŽÔŒŸ), short for jidousha kensa(Ž©“®ŽÔŒŸ¸), (literally, car test/inspection) is the test that your car needs to pass every 2 years at the MLIT testing centre (or a "designated" motor service business, which has their own shaken line (equipment, etc) and is authorized to do the tests in-house).

                            TenkenSeibi(“_ŒŸ®”õ), which literally means "checking" (tenken“_ŒŸ), and "repairing" or "fixing" (seibi®”õ) refers to the periodic checks that are to be made on your car, the items to be checked stipulated by law.

                            For private passenger cars, the law stipulates day-to-day tenken and periodic tenken:

                            Day-to-day (12 items).

                            12-monthly (26 items)

                            24-monthly (60 items).

                            The actual legislation is here...
                            •Ê•\‘æ“ñ@iŽ©‰Æ—pæ—pŽ© “®ŽÔ“™‚Ì“úí“_ŒŸŠî€j (day-to-day checks)
                            •Ê•\‘æ˜Z@iŽ©‰Æ—pæ—pŽ© ®ŽÔ“™‚Ì’èŠú“_ŒŸŠî€j (periodic checks)

                            As far as I am aware, there are no penalties for failing to do these checks (although driving an unroadworthy vehicle is probably an offence). The only one of these checks which is "enforced" in any way is the 24-monthly tenken seibi at Shaken time. You're (officially) required to show your tenkenseibi kirokubo at the inspection centre, but, as cordless discovered, it is only glanced at.

                            The motor service industry association claims that less than 40% of motorists do the 12-monthly check, so you're in the majority if you don't bother with it.

                            Of course, you'd want to make sure your car is safe.
                            Last edited by bland; 2009-09-27, 04:29 PM. Reason: spelling


                            • #15
                              tenken-seibi-zumi sticker

                              Originally posted by Hijinx
                              Yea, I got stopped once by the cops and hadn't gotten the new sticker--they didn't say anything.
                              The Shaken sticker is the SQUARE sticker, stuck to the inside of your windscreen, normally at the centre top, behind the rear vision mirror.
                     (normal cars)
                     (yellow plate kei-cars)

                              This is the official shaken sticker - it is compulsory.

                              The other sticker, seen on most vehicles, stuck on the inside of the windscreen, on the top left-hand corner is ROUND, and looks like a dial.
                              This is the "tenken-seibi-zumi" sticker. This sticker is not compulsory (contrary to popular belief).

                              (Of course, actually doing the "tenken seibi" is "compulsory", and you should probably have the tenkenseibi kirokubo in your car with your shaken certificate etc. However, having this dial-shaped sticker on your windscreen is not compulsory).

                              So what is this dial-shaped sticker?

                              If you read it closely, you'll see that it's a sticker that the motor service industry association has obtained special permission from MLIT (Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, and Transport) and the NPA (National Police Agency) to have stuck to windscreens (I think that means you're not allowed to put just any sticker on your front windscreen), to "promote awareness" of the need for tenken seibi.

                              It shows the year and date that the next 12-monthly tenken seibi is to be done. On the reverse are the details of the motor service business that did the tenken seibi.

                              "tenken-seibi zumi(“_ŒŸ®”õÏ)" literally means "tenken-seibi completed", and the official-looking nature of the sticker makes it quite effective, if...

                              Originally posted by Hijinx
                              It's just another scam to funnel money into car dealer or repair shop hands.

                              The sticker is issued to authorized members of the motor service industry association, for them to stick onto customers' cars that they do tenken seibi on. If the motorist does the tenken seibi themselves, or with the assistance of someone who's not an authorized member, there is no sticker.

                              The motor service industry association issued this stern warning to their members after seven of these stickers were found auctioned on the internet in November 2003:
                              (It says that, if the stickers aren't handled properly, MLIT and NPA might take away our permission to have them on car windscreens, and that would be bad news.)

                              If you've done the tenken seibi yourself, you should remove the old tenken-seibi-zumi sticker. The authorization for having that sticker on the windscreen is, I understand, 12 months, so you should remove the old tenken-seibi-zumi sticker, just like this person is shown doing after doing tenken seibi himself:
                              (bottom paragraph of page)

                              So cordless - you need to remove this round dial sticker.

                              What this means, is that if you see a car without this round dial sticker (a low percentage), it probably means that they've done "User Shaken".
                              Last edited by bland; 2006-10-07, 08:47 PM.